“As the Jewish rabbinic male chef calling the shots has receded from the stage of history, the sous-chef (often constructed as female) who buys, cooks, serves, and transmits recipes of Jewish food, has become the “star” of the performances of Jewish edible identities. The Jewish food we consume is female. Jewish food is what our grandmothers and mothers cooked. Jewish food is our immigrant grandmother’s negotiations with kashrut— that is, what she chose to adopt and reject from among her abundant new American options, and her choice as to when to cook Jewish or go out for Chinese or Italian.”

– Brumberg-Kraus