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• 1 2020-03-10T16:47:45-07:00 Cecil Northrop "At Sea," 1921 49 Transcription plain 2021-08-31T19:53:26-07:00 In "At Sea," Cecil Northrop details his experience as a cadet on the training ship Newport of the New York State Nautical School from June-July, 1921. The typed pages were likely copied from handwritten journals, and were clearly in the process of being edited (hand written corrections and notations have been incorporated into the transcription). Unfortunately, pages 3-8 are missing and the text is cut off at page 25.  The digitized manuscript is available through the Stephen B. Luce Library's digital collections site and the original is part of the Cecil Northrop Papers. Unlike most cadets on the Newport, Northrop wasn't "green," as he had already shipped out on the SS Santa Paula and traveled to the West Coast of South America at age 18 in 1919. In "At Sea," he often compares his existing skill and sea knowledge to his classmates' relative inexperience.
  
  Any text in brackets is a note of the transcriber. 

  June 26, 1921
  “At Sea”

  Introduction Needed [Hand written]
  
  Last night I took my first watch, and gave up the job as “orderly” owing to the fact that the orderly is expected to stand a night watch which would have made me work 17 hours, I could not see it, so I am going to take it as easy as possible but work on deck which is far more interesting and unless I have to lift any extra heavy weights, all will go well. Being in the second division we had the grave yard watch, 12-4. I stood lee wheel for the first two hours, also steered for about twenty minutes[.] I did better I drew regular helmsman because I have the knack of “meeting her” in passing Fire Island. Broad on our Port Bow Sir,”.  At four bells I was relieved and hung around the deck doing nothing. Some of the boys were sick, although only light swells running; don’t know how they will be when we get a little weather. Had to take a strip wash on deck this a.m., rather nice and not so very cold. We are steaming at about 7 knots per, with cloudy weather but wonderfully calm sea, I have never seen the Atlantic so before. My work don’t begin until we get under sail, and then, the Lord only knows. Afraid I am going to miss very much my various girl friends. Was told by Executive Officer I could stand a shave.
   
  4 P.M. Same day. Have just come off my watch and am a little tired for the first time since coming on. For the first ten hours I stood boss lookout. Sighted some whales. Last two hours helped heave ashes with about six others and also heaved bags of coal out of engine room, I should say, fire room gratings. The work was a 
   
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  little heavy, but I am anxious to get a line on just what I am able to. The boys show so little spirit that it makes all work hard. I would give anything to be able to be contented slacking, but somehow it goes against the grain, and I like to do things with a snap. In this case I guess I am about the only one I can make snappy. O, well such is life! I am going to take things as easy as I can, as my side hurts some now. A great many of our divisions have something the matter with their hands so we are a little shorthand. Sea still calm, but slightly heavier swell.
   
  June 27th. Stood lee wheel first two hours. There was some sea running and we pitched heavily. As luck will have it, about four of my division are sick, a couple of with bad hands, and the others just plain seasick. One poor little fellow with a physique like a sparrow, was laying on the lee side clutching the rail. He was the port cat-head lookout. I felt so sorry for him that I stood watch for him. I regret that I did not bring Mother-Sills Sea Sick Remedy as I hate to see anyone suffer, especially when they are never fitted for the sea. I have done a lot around the deck and as far as my side is concerned it feels O.K. But I am tired, tired, tired, I feel as though I would not care if I died. I do not seem able to get the old “pep.” The system of watches is very poor here. You stand your watch and go off duty. They turn you to put you to work, though your watch is over. I came near pasting a guy last night- 4th class; he has eyelids that sort of cover his pupils, his head slopes back, and I am sure something is lacking. Everything on this packet is primitive. To wash clothes is a real hardship due to the terrible crowding. This afternoon they set sail. I was at the wheel at the time. Wind was so light that she would not even pay off.
   
  [page 3-8 missing]
   
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  July 2nd. This a.m. the ship was put in irons by one of the second class. I never saw such a thing. I did not stand wheel this day as I wanted a rest. I was aft on life buoy and saw it all. The mate at the wheel says the wind changed suddenly,- this I known did not happen. He was relieved and another man took his place. He was nearly as bad as the first. He was told to let her fall off, believe me, he did. The course was nor-east and he let her fall off to N.W. I was watching the north star and warned him in time to save her from wearing ship. The job was hoisted and spanker furled in order to get her under way again. The weather man at the wheel has asked me to stand the watch with him as he admits he is green. I am catching on first rate to working the ship so that in a month’s time I shall be able to “hand, reef, and steer.” Just at present we are clipping along 6 knots, I heaved the chip log myself. The sea is getting more like the old Atlantic I know, and I would not be surprised to have a little heavy weather today. Being Saturday we had Captain’s inspection and got thru by rolling my underwear down to my waist and borrowing a shirt, mine being not fit for publication. We change watches tonight, I have an 8-12. I am sort of out of luck as there is going to be no more scrubbing until after the 4th and I have nothing clean. This is not neglect on my part but due to the short time allowed for scrubbing and having to do so in salt water. We expect to reach Ponta Del Gada Wednesday week, if we have any sort of fair weather, and sooner if this keeps up.  
   
  Some of the boys are black and blue from beatings by old mugs for various violations of rules. Once again I express my sympathy for and disgust at the brutality of one animal with another.
   
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  But when they get into commercial life they will have to change their method a little. Altogether the day has been very pleasant and I have no complaints. I was thinking of the terrible crowds going to Coney Island to see the Ocean and here is more than I know what to do with. So long, diary, old top, until tomorrow.
   
  July 3rd. Running before a stiff breeze-might say a small gale with blows that heel us way over to starboard. Steering 72 East. Relieved wheel for supper, some little excitement if not watched with minutest care. She comes up with the wind like a bat out of hell. The breeze is strong enough to take the kicks out of her, so I heard the Captain say. It rained like cats and dogs which was a God send, as there was no washing period and I did not have a clean suit in my locker. I scrubbed three suits, three caps and two pair of underwear. The underwear I am somewhat ashamed to own, that is if I were home, there are many things slightly different from home. Yes Lord!
   
  Tomorrow being July 4, will be a little holiday and they will have sports such as boxing and wrestling. Wish I was able to box, but I guess I had better not. Got kicked in the side by accident, and boy apologized; it hurt a little anyway. Am standing 8-12 watch now and get a little more rest. The only objection is Stock, “Pope [?],” is O.D. Went aft and climbed up main topsail, also passed the gaskets for trisail. Captain asked me about my side and told me to be careful,- much nicer of a man than some one I know. Days seem to slip by fairly swift now and we are more than half way across.
   
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  July 4th, In about Lat 39 degrees N, 50 degrees W. Long. Some Fourth! and writing this while ship is laboring heavily, so much so that the lockers are capsizing. Running before a heavy gale of 75 mile per hour. Spanker storm sale set. At twelve o’clock midnight when going below, wind was very strong but steady from N.W. Running wind. Reefed topsail and foresail. 4 A.M. all hands on deck. When I got on deck there some change! Were actually wallowing, sea coming over gangway and running level with bulwarks, we could actually slide down the side of the seas. The wind shifted suddenly to south, nearly taking her aback and all but lost the fore. Four men are on the wheel, others heaving away on deck. I grabbed the first piece of gear where men were hauling. Nearly absolute silence was maintained. Some men were stripped to the waist as when they turned in – their white bodies contrasting against the dark gray sea and softened by the pouring rain. Awful pitch and fall of the ship gave the whole affair a supernatural aspect. The sea is a great leveler, Officers, men, “new mugs” and old, doing their duty with that silent determination and upholding all traditions of the sea. “Newport” acted better than I ever expected, rolling and pitching at about forty degrees both ways, but riding like a duck. Earlier in the evening the wheel was given to one of the A.B. crew, a real seamen. The feeling of security at knowing that an experienced man is guiding the vessel, I am unable to describe. But it comes from knowing that everything that human beings can do is being done and eliminates the danger of fatal mistakes and leaves more to fate, which is the easy enough to become resigned to. After sail was furled, the watch below
   
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  was piped down again. It was hell on deck and I would have liked to stay, but I realized that today would be heavy and I needed all the rest I could grab. Some never turned in again, and were scared green, even tried to sit in lifeboats. I slept well, never waking until 7 a.m. What is the sense of worrying, if we had gone down, well others have drowned before, perhaps it would be fifteen minutes of pain, I don’t know. Anyway I hardly think I care enough for life to lose peace of mind at the chance of drowning. Barometer is still dropping and it is getting so bad that I am hardly able to write. Captain on deck all day, not even coming down for dinner. The truss of the foremast is eating away and handfulls of pulp is falling on deck. Making ? for it as soon as possible. Two days ago it would have been impossible to have realized a scene such as going on deck. God help the boy that falls overboard now; it is impossible to launch a boat in this sea. One boy was nearly washed overboard last night, but one of the boat davits stopped him. The sea is very like a woman, one she shines and you are able to see to the bottom, (or think you can) and the next minute she is grinding her teeth. Little we realize what a disaster at sea is until we ourselves get scratched – this the power of the sea. Getting so bad that I guess I will have to quit and see if I can get a little sleep on a bench or some place, because it is my trick at the wheel tonight from 8-10 and believe me it is real work. I am dead tired even now, having worked like hell all day in the pouring rain. Passed nearly all the gaskets for the trisail myself. Those I did not
   
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  were all foul of the running gear boys some of the “very part A.B.” But I must say that this is all thrilling and is a real fight if you know what I mean. Had turkey for dinner and was able to get a little in the face of very big “old mugs.” It is a case of sweet now for the rift, at the table anyway if not on deck. I wonder who was in charge of the hospital last night and was sorry to wake up. I wish Josephine or babe doll was with me, then I would not care very much if we did go down. Au revoir, till we meet again, there is no telling what will happen in the next few hours.
   
  July 5th. Under all sail again, steering 72 E sea choppy but devoid of swells that have been running for the last three days. Had turkey dinner yesterday as I expected made up for it today. Namely stew of indifferent kinds of meat, hard tack, prunes, not enough, coffee like bilge water. But of course, this was reaction and maybe will get something to eat to-morrow.
   
  Nothing very interesting to record today. Late last night before sea fell, they were running high, fifteen to twenty feet above the topsail rolling 45 degrees and dipping bowsprit under something very impressive about an after tow sea, had to ____? under storm sails until this a.m. Last night all the grub went on the deck, but managed to get some more, which was remarkable in itself. Went aloft to cast gaskets off stays, also gave the mast the 0.0. Condition looks very bad. Looks exactly like a cedar pencil that I have often shaved. The collar, which is at the foot of the ____ has cut about an inch or so into the rotten mast. With any sort of blow it would go by the board, sure as hell. It is very cold, I suppose it is because 
   
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  we are out of the Gulf Stream. At night I wear one sweater, heavy underwear, sea boots and oil skins. Sky is very gray. Sudden change to composition color is like Sunday in Hoboken. Am going to watch the gradual development of new mugs into old, even this early in the game I can see they (our class, some of them) are not going to prove the exception. All their talk of yesteryear is falling down. This is through inconsideration and because it’s not happening to them. Selfishness plain and simple. If I can possible prevent it I am going to do so. To step on seems to be human nature, but is the old case of giving common people the least but of authority. Meals are sort of lacking but manage to fill up on crackers and butter and guess I am not dropping any superfluous fat or gaining any for that matter. I have charge of five or six men under me in their respective watches. Some of them have the idea that when it is bad weather they can get out of it. Still raining and impossible nearly for me to get clean clothes dry, so am wearing gray ones, of course I don’t lose any sleep over this. Well, if this mast don’t come down or some little thing like that, I guess most of the excitement is over. A storm at sea puts most people on an unconscious strain, some very hilarious and some cross. Very peculiar. 
   
  July 6th. Hardly moving at present and 900 miles more to go. Today the sea is as calm as a mountain lake. It is hard to realize that this very same sea was raising particular hell just a few hours ago. I don’t mind a storm so much if ship is O.K.
   
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  but I sure hate calm. It has started to rain again. This morning we started studies again, all classes. It makes you feel more ambitious when they begin to ______. We brought black boards on deck. It will be very pleasant when we get a little fair weather. This noon the commissary informed us all that we would not get any more biscuit as we were throwing it around the gun deck. This is not so, it is just an excuse to stop down on food, the S. of B. breed at that. If he starts this sort of business I’ll fix him when I get ashore. When we are off the ship we are off. I will just follow him until I get him a place where nothing he can say will be believed, and then, oh then. It was pretty cold this a.m. when we took our strip wash believe me, but somehow it does not seem to give any of us a cold. My feet are sore from going bare foot and also have a couple of split toes so am wearing sneakers at every chance. By the end of the week we ought to be in Ponta Del Gada. 
   
  July 7th. Breeze freshened this P.B. but has died down. In Long. 41 degrees 51 degrees W. Lat. 38 degrees. Every time first division takes the skip they put her aback. Bum steering, that’s what. Foxy gets hell for it too. I feel sorry for him as he is pretty old and takes things pretty hard; sometimes he tries to give the Captain an argument and gets hushed each time. Saw some “Mantiks” this afternoon they look very pretty with their pink sails and blue backs. I tried to get one but was not allowed over the side by O.D. As I said yesterday have started studies, so we do not have to work all day, which complies more with my ideas. I have divided the watches up so that one man gets a rest every day. In that way I
   
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  only have to answer life boat call during night watch, which enables me to sleep nearly four hours. Last night I stood real hard watch so that I would not have to stand up all the time as I do when the wheel of life bong, as it was I managed to sleep from 5-10 Bells on the night watch. Not so bad for first trial of course. I expect to become more expert. There sure are tricks in everything. This A.M. I swiped a can of peaches from the galley. I have some lunch all right. Coming down the deck I ran into nearly all the officers on this tub. As I walked I had to think of some place to store it. I was hard pressed and I hated like hell to chuck it out of a port, so I kept going and hid in the commissary. Chow gear box under his table. Knowing that close to home was safety anyway. Well, I hung around and hung around and everything seemed to stand between me and these peaches, by this time my tongue was hanging out. Then this Commissary started to tell about catching alligators, and drawing it out so that I thought, I would have to say “so long peaches.” He usually goes on deck early. Finally he did get up, then a first class man came to the table and started to figure out our position. I opened the port so we could perhaps ship a sea and he would move but the sea refused to come in and the “cadolle” kept writing. There were my peaches just hankering to be eat; there I was on the verge of murder. After a while this one moved too, and I was just waving a spoon when in walks stock inspecting and to Cap the climax he asked to look in the box; Ye Gods, how I trembled, but just in the nick of time the ship rolled, slid the box over and believe me I took my time getting it so I could open it again, and he continued the rest of his inspecting. When all this
   
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  was over I sure needed peaches to steady my nerves. I killed the whole can in less than a minute, which is good speed, try eating a can of anything after a large meal,- not so easy. I parked myself in the library to recover, also due to inability of locomotion,- I was so jammed. Funny now, but, tragic then.
   
  If I can pirate enough I am sure I will gain as I am feeling better each day. Last night I watched the sun set. Well perhaps the sunrise at sea is lacking in the song of birds, light on house tops and hills, and general awakening of living things which makes sunrise on land so inspiring, the sunset at sea is more calming and beautiful, the work is done, everything is fixed for the night. As the sun sets, I watched it gradually sink into the sea, the clouds were streaked with a wonderful fire as some immense conflagration – this golden light is spread over everything, men and all, looking through rose colored glasses is nothing compared to this. The melancholy feeling that is impossible to resist, there is something awe inspiring, which with my poor ability to describe is merely sacrilege. It must be great to be able to describe, with a reality which can be seen over again. The boys say I am getting silent and don’t laugh as much as I used to – maybe not, but I have enjoyed writing this diary, as it gives me a sort of outlet to my feelings. The boys are so shallow.
   
  Here’s a good sleep on watch to-night.
   
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  July 8th. Lat. 
  Weather wonderful. Not going more than four knots though. Passed Dutch Steamer Ceres. She altered her course so that she would come within a short distance, and passed our stern very close. Dipped her flag, blew her whistle. Wild excitement on board, trying to get enough steam to reply, got three measly blasts which made every one laugh. A ship meeting a ship at sea is quite an event. A very peculiar feeling. After about three weeks with nothing but ocean, ocean, ocean on every side, to sight a steamer with other human beings gives a sort of security and breaks the spell of being the only living thing on so vast a space. Found a swell job this afternoon with sail maker, he needed a hand to splice so stops for a mast screen. I regret to say that two of the boys he picked could not splice or course. It was just falling off a log for me, so I was able to drag the whole afternoon away. I think it is pretty bad for anyone to be on a ship, (especially a training ship) for eight months and not know how to splice. The boys at our top broke out some jam today. Before we sailed they said that anyone who did not bring anything need not expect to get any, so when they opened the jam I got up and left, they offered me some but somehow I could not make myself take it, for some reason I know my face went very red. I could not forget their words. I suppose I should not feel that way but I can’t help it. They must have felt bad about it, for one of the boys brought a piece of cracker and a lot of jam from his own plate to me, in the library, which I think was very gentlemanly, and showed a lot of character. Because they had very disagree-
   
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  able about this, so as to impress it upon us that we would be sure to bring something. I still wish there was a gentleman among them although Furst is about the only one. The others are so infernally selfish, until it is disgusting. Nothing at all like the comradeship of seamen, which makes life at sea very pleasant, it is almost necessary when men are thrown together for weeks at a time with no other diversion than games, they feel aye between themselves. They [sturk?], grab best watches, impose on the mild ones, eat everything at the table, never care whether anyone else has anything to eat or not. Of course I always get more than enough. Some say I never laugh like I used to. I don’t think that the effect of the last month has worn completely off yet. If it has, it has left me more serious, perhaps indifferent, I have days of sad spells that I am unable to throw off. Sometimes I wonder if I would have been happier if I had died. Another strange thing is that nothing excites me. The other night in that storm and the wind was blowing 75 miles per hour, I only took an outside interest in the goings on and felt as though I were on the top of a mountain watching ants struggle. I do believe that if the waves had washed me overboard I would not have raised a hand to swim. I sort of enjoy this diary, which I think I will destroy when I finish with the cruise.
   
  July 9th. As I expected I am still about a week from port, but I feel safe in thinking we will be anchored Saturday next. Had Captain’s inspection as usual. Got thru O.K. Shifted back into white “not so clean.” Will ring same stunt in on Wally “por la mannena” which is Sunday. Have been closely watching the Commissary to see
   
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  what he eats. As I supposed he eats twice. Once what the rest of us get and then what he has cooked for himself. This morning he had four eggs, bacon, lots of crackers, butter and tea with enough sugar. Every morning he has something extra. I see now why he such a heavy-weight. Think I will carry out my plan in reference to this “bumbo.” Last night when I was getting ready to ship a little on watch there was a general yell for Northrup to come sit here, no sit here! Now, tell us a tale, we don’t care what kind. I tried to plead not knowing any but it did not work and the mob began to get larger and larger, that I finally in desperation made an elaborate, complicated, blood murder out of my head. Worked fine, I increased from one point to another until I got into my stride, then, believe me, I sure had a “thundinger” of a tale. Tonight I will do my best to get out of reciting. Wish I had a book of strange tales or something. Guess I will have to cut down on this diary as I will not have any paper left for something real interesting. Still feel more so than ever the want of my nurses, wish there were sea going hospitals, I sure would be sick for months at a time. Have thought of Cecil and wonder if she would care to hear from me. I will write her anyway and take a chance. She was sure a sweet girl. Guess I did not act exactly as I should, but she said she that she would never care for me if I went to sea, which I sometimes wonder if she meant. But I could never be satisfied with a settled position for some time to come and feel that in the end it would have meant unhappiness for both of us. So perhaps it is better that things should turn out as they did.  In
   
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  my inner heart I shall always have a place reserved for her, which no one will ever be able to displace. I blame myself for many things and it makes me a little sad. Now, with the nurses I could not resist the temptation of saying pretty things, and telling them long lines of lies, not real lies either, as when with each separate one I thought I meant the things I said. In this way I guess I made bad friends of half of them. That’s what I got for having all my eggs in the same basket. When I get back I am going to go with only one or maybe two, not living in the same house, no siree. But I will write to the bunch anyway, just for the hell of it. I do love them all together and each separately. I sure will destroy this page.
   
  July 10th. Still going about the speed of molasses in winter. Lots of jelly fish floating past, once in a while a box or spar, outside of that the scenery is nil. Did not get as much to eat as I would like to have, but this is the first time since starting. Last night Duke, a boy on here, weighing 200 pounds, had what he called a sex magnet which consisted of a bullet on a string. About 40 cadets were down on their keens over a jelly fish trying to see if was a girl or boy, finally decided it was a lady. But such a gunout you never heard in your life, nearly the whole crew had buckets trying to catch jelly fish. Was awful funny.
   
  Am now on 4-8 watch, which I don’t like very much. Seem very tired and my side hurts some. Listened to a lecture on Spain by Spanish teacher. I am afraid I will have trouble with a tooth as it is beginning to hurt. Just can’t locate which tooth it is.
   
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  July 11th. Notes today will have to be necessarily short. This was very interesting day, started off with headache; got one demerit for not having clothes stamped on call. Am on 4-8. Got turned to a pont[?] so could not scrub. Worked two hours to get one demerit off. Got permission to scrub upper hammock; came on deck and could not get any water. So ship,- I never mind working but I hate to be treated unfairly. Working two hours for one demerit is not right nor according to regulations. They give demerits according to regulations. 
   
  July 13th. Was unable yesterday to write anything because I wrote letter to Pop and it took up some time in thinking what not to say. I did not mention that I do work like the rest of them as it would only worry him and he would think it is hurting me. Being on the 4-8 is rotten for me anyway, because from dinner until 12 we study,- from one until four we study, then we go on deck until hammocks, so have not a minute to ourselves. One of the hardest things I find is try to keep fairly clean  as to clothes it is bending over and having to keep at it so fast for the whole hours which is too short a time to scrub more than one suit, but it is also necessary to have that suit.
   
  I have had a splendid chance to study human character, and most of the boys are turning out exactly as I expected. We have been issued white pants and shoes. I have not as yet seen how they look. I find the rest of my class very much slower when anything is to be done aloft than I am, I guess they are not as sure of themselves. On good days they crowd to go aloft, but when it is blowing I find only about four on a yard. Stole some
   
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  soap yesterday which saved my life. Wish I had a caramel. I don’t know how I will write to the various girls in my terrible hand. Guess I had better though.
   
  July 14th. Arrived Ponta del Gada at about 4. [Van Horne Morris also visited the port on the training ship Nantucket in 1937].
   
  July 17th. Mad house for the last three days, this sure has been a mad house. I have been unable to write anything, because of the confusion, you can talk of your discipline, but if the events of the last few days are an example then it isn’t worth a damn. 
   
  We arrived on the 14th about 4 p.m. I sighted land three hours before anyone else, I reported it to the Officer of the deck. I said I see a mountain three points on the Port bow. He looked wit the glasses and said he thought I was mistaken. Three hours later the clouds lifted and there was Mount Pico about ten miles away on the Port beam, the Officer of the Deck said “Well, Northrop, there’s your mountain.” There is a peculiar feeling in seeing land after three weeks at sea. We furled sail and came into Ponta del Gada under steam, when off the breakwater a typical spick pilot came aboard. That same night we (Port watch) were given liberty until eleven o’clock ship’s time. Of course there was terrible excitement but to me the town was so much like the towns of South America, that I know just what to expect. The place is attractive from the water front, being surrounded by high mountains which are unusual in their being cultivated right to the summit. This place is noted for pineapples. The “bum” boats were loaded with them selling them at a big profit, - 20 cents, when you are able to buy them ashore for a nickel, or 500 centavos. Most of the houses are white but there is a strong mixture of pink,   24.   blue, green, and many other tints which give the place a clean look. They are built like most Spanish dumps,- square, two to three stories, without windowsills or door steps. The streets are narrow but clean, with the usual number of squares where semi-tropical tress and flowers. In their trees at night I could hear the parrots chatting and reminded me still more of the west coast. There are not many places of amusement or any large restaurants. Although I had a splendid meal in a small place, (about the best there) for a dollar or 10,000 raes. This included a bottle of Champagne between five of us, the whole dinner coming to less than five bones. We then walked around the town, but being at night we could not get much of an idea of the surrounding country. I would have liked very much to have been able to go into the interior, which must have been pretty owing to the care the people seemed to take in every thing they did. Of course, we did not get enough time, and most of the crowd made a bee line for a gin mill and worse. There were a bunch of average Americans who at home would have never dreamed of getting drunk or acting [paper creased, illegible]. Most of them would take two glasses and be rolling drunk, [paper creased, illegible?] raise hell. It is bad enough to do this in civilian clothes, but in a uniform representing future American Officers, well all I can say is they did not have a speck of pride. Even if I did want to do this, I would at least try to hide it. This town is wide open in every way, but they are confined to a certain quarter. I thought that it was only among common crews that all hands got drunk and was a little surprised at this crowd. The crowd I was with comprised about the only decent ones on the ship
   
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  and I can guarantee that we had a far more pleasant time than any. The electrician was so drunk that they carried him bodily to the boat and of the gangway. Some of the cadets were so drunk they could not walk straight and fell overboard when trying to step into the running boat. Disgusting! The more I see of this the more I believe in "Pro". I can understand now why any girl will hesitate before marrying a seaman, and good reason too. I wonder if I will be judged such. Some of the boys were so drunk that I gave them a hand in getting into their hammocks. The only persons I saw drunk were Americans- some opinion they must have of us as a nation.
   
  The next night we had a dance aboard which was a great success. The Captain got the consul to invite the guests and a very high class of girls shoed up, in fact they were the best Ponta had. Some of the girls traveled all over Europe and could speak French and Italian besides a fair amount of English. I was a little coming on deck as I had been fixing [page creased, illegible]. We strung the whole deck with lights and signal flags which [page creased, illegible]. Deck and benches along the sides. The moon was [page creased, illegible] on the altogether a novel looking effect. I was surprised how the little Spanish I had learned while in South America helped me. When I came on deck most of the boys were sitting around like stones, so I started right in and asked the prettiest girl there for a dance, then as soon as I had finished that dance, I went right through the bunch, introducing some boy to the girl so that in about ten dances things were humming. I did not sit out one dance. They were fair dancers but you had to be careful not
   
  [Typed manuscript ends here. "At Sea" and other typed and hand written journals are part of the Cecil Northrop Papers, Stephen B. Luce Library Archives, SUNY Maritime College.] 
• 1 2020-03-07T15:37:12-08:00 Cecil Northrop "Two Months Before the Mast," 1919, pages 19-32 [end] 12 Transcription plain 2021-08-26T11:40:37-07:00

  Thanksgiving Day.

  I am feeling kind of homesick and very blue today. I suppose it is the thinking of the Turkey that I could be eating, maybe if I were back home, or the big juicy beefsteak, or the things that I have not got now. I am not working today except for an hour this morning. When we had to give the deck “a drink”, as this hot weather makes it very thirsty. But I go over for that and you know how that cheers me up.
  
  I suppose the novelty is wearing off, whereas before I did not have the time to feel homesick, and then going through the canal gives you the feeling as if you were passing the gate where there is no turning back. The sun is shining as usual, and the old tub is going along at a great clip, for there is no want of breeze, for besides what the steamer is making, it is blowing pretty hard anyhow; the spray is going on deck, but I am on the lea side of a hatch, as snug as a bug in a rug. The rest of the crew are asleep aft, that is some of them are. The others are reading or telling fish stories, and every now and then the famous fish story. They not only tell about the things they have heard of, but also the things they have seen, and I must say they sure run a close race. Whistling for sea lions and fights with sea "sar-pents", and sharks, they have caught, and suckers they think they are catching. These tales are very interesting even as a work of the imagination, and I really believe that when they are telling them, they get to thinking they are true, and perhaps about fifty per cent of them are. Up around Norway there are a great number of sea lions and they sometimes hang around the fishing boats. When they see the men throw a fish to them they catch it in their mouth, so every day around dinner time, the men whistle for a little while and this same lion will appear for his dinner. I am not saying this is true, but sea lions are very smart, for I have seen them trained to balance balls and to do all sorts of stunts. So this one tale might be true. They do not tell these tales especially for my benefit, but rather to match the other men.
  
  There are a great many sea lions down here, most of the harbors are just full of them. One was killed by our propeller the other day. When coming from shore last night about twelve o'clock, the small boat that we were in hit something which we took to be a rock, but in looking over the side to see what it was discovered that it was a seal lion that must have been sleeping on the surface. It seemed to have scared us more than the lion.
  
  I saw the Southern Cross (a southern constellation) for the first time in my life about two nights ago. It is very easy to find, and can be seen about ten degrees below the "line". It is formed of four stars in an almost perfect cross. I also saw the Magellan Clouds. They consist of three small nebulae, one dark and two bright.
  
  The nights are very beautiful, and I love to stay up on deck and watch the wake, the phosphorescence makes apparently a path of living fire which can be seen for about a mile. Along the ship’s side and where over there is the slightest disturbance, it will show itself.
  
  I have seen a great many "blows,” that is whales. Once or twice we have come within a mile of them. In looking over the water I would see a stream of spray, or steam, shoot into the air and knew right way they were whales. I have watched them through the glasses a few times. I saw one jump clean out of the water and land again with a thud which could be heard for miles. I could not realize their size until I saw this one out of the water.
  
  As we are to call in at about fifteen places, it will of course be much more interesting than it has been for the last week or so. Being out of sight of land, doing nothing but manual labor and very menial work makes me sometimes wonder why I went to sea. But when we are calling in every day or so and seeing new towns it will be very pleasant. Even the going in and out of the harbors will be a lot of fun now these "niggers" are aboard, for all I will have to do will be to take care of the winch and order the "niggers" around. They do not act like the "niggers" of the south. They are very insolent. The Bos'n has not got the right idea yet, he says "come over and give me a hand with this rope will yer?” and pulls with them. But I stand at the winch and yell at them like a Southerner. "Get a hold of that rope, what do you think you are hired for? to loaf around all day? hustle now!" and I was surprised to see that they sure did step. They also make room for me when I am coming along. There is one standing up in front of me now with his mouth wide open. I am sitting on the deck with the Corona on my lap and I suppose he has never seen one used that way before. I don't mind that so much, as he is a  long way off and his stare is from surprise only. They are fearfully lazy, they are supposed to be painting the booms, but they are just sitting up there singing to themselves, not raising their brush until you give them a look and then of course they paint until you are out of sight. You can hardly blame them for taking their time, they are paid very poorly for the work they do. Getting thirty dollars a month with twelve cents an hour overtime. They do as much work as any New York longshoreman and just compare the pay.
  
  There are very few docks on the West Coast, and our whole cargo has to be taken out in barges. That strikes me as very funny there being such a large trade you would think it would pay them to build docks.
  
  I suppose there is some reason why it is not done-- either the depth of the water, or the open harbor where the swells would grind the ship to pieces, or some other reason that I do not know of. But this loading into barges means double loading. First from the dock to the barge, then from the barge to the ship, besides the time it takes to tow them out. In rough weather it is impossible to come out to the ship.
  
  The Bos'n is a mighty nice fellow, and gives me the lighter jobs when he can, which is very nice of him as they usually make the ordinary do the hardest work. I have a few knots on my hands but that will make it easier for me in the handling of ropes, though it does not improve their looks. The Bos'n says that if I wash them in crude oil it will take all the dirt out, so I will try that the next time. 

  Nov 29 Talara, Peru.

  When I started on this trip I had an idea that would be traveling among the palm trees, coconuts, and dates and figs; that everything would be green, with beautiful tropical growth, with houses that had inner courts, and green parrots, and maybe a fountain, that it would be too hot to work, except for a few hours a day, with men wearing tall straw hats, and never walking anywhere, always having horses to go on when at night I would be able to hear them playing on their guitars, under some window. You know the regular "adventure” bunk. So you can imagine the bump I got when I struck this godforsaken "berg.” We arrived early in the morning, and when I came on deck and looked towards the land I could see nothing but miles, and miles, of desert, not flat like a regular desert, but hills about seven hundred feet high with narrow trails crossing and winding about those most desolate piles of sand. It looks exactly like a relief map, as the winds and earthquakes have left their mark upon them, in the way of deep gashes and slices.
  
  As soon as it was light enough, the Pilot came out to take us in. While going in, four or five, large rafts with a big square sail "catamarans" crossed our bow although we were going at a good clip. They sail wonderfully fast to be so unshapely. They sail right through the breakers, and when nearly beached they let go their sheet and jump ashore, then pull it well out of reach of the tide. The logs of which these rafts are made are so light that one the size of our largest telegraph pole can easily be lifted by one man, which I suppose accounts for the speed they get out of them. We could not tie up to the small dock as the harbor is so open that it would break up the ship, as the surf is very heavy. So we had to moor to bouys on one side and the dock on the other with about thirty feet between the dock and the side of the ship into which space the barges came alongside.
  
  That day there being nothing doing I swam about a quarter of a mile to shore thinking that I would be able to get some fruit; hang around for a while and then swim back. I had to swim, as it is a closed port and I could not land on the dock. The town is a native fishing village, built right on the beach. When I had rested for a few minutes I started out to find the store and the main street, which when I did finally locate it, consisted of two houses. One was the market, an open work affair about forty by sixty feet, and the other must have been a store but had gone out of business. As I have said I was looking for fruit. I thought the best place would of course be the market, so I started to enter, being careful not to step on the dead dog which was in the path, and I kept out of range of the little burro which was kicking to beat the band, to the great delight of a crowd of "hombres'' sitting on a sort of fence, and some on the ground. When half way in the door I heard the most awful string of language that you can imagine. My Spanish being very disjointed I did not think for a minute that I could be the one for whose benefit the speech was made. It was not until I caught some of the more familiar cuss words that I turned around. I saw a great big fat “squaw” three times broader than she was tall, with a ladle of boiling soup with which she was making very positive motions, in the direction of the door. I was so dazed for a minute that I tried to make up my mind what to do when I was saved that trouble by her making it up for me, in the way of short rush, so that I had no trouble in understanding her. So I made a rather hasty retreat. By this time I had collected a crowd of children of about a hundred, who did not give up the chase until I reached the water edge. One of them off his guard came within the reach of my arm, and I grabbed him hoping that I would be able to find out why I had received such a cold (I might say hot) reception. After about a half hour of painful Spanish, I was able to understand that the lady in the village had objected to my bathing suit which they told me did not cover my lower limbs sufficiently. Of course my suit was just the usual thing in the states. So, I received another shock, as I would not have been surprised to see the people down there wear just a string of beads.
  
  That night I got permission from the Captain of the port to go ashore. I went to the circus that happened to be in town but it was nothing very unusual about it except that of course it was in Spanish, and I felt that the people were foolish when they laughed at the jokes which were Greek to me. There were no animals, and the ring was very small. There was a tight rope walker and a lady that walked around on a ball, and some jugging which was so poor that I believe I could have done better. This ended my stay in Talara, Peru, I was not very sorry.

  Lima Peru.

  I hope I am here long enough to go to the bull fight. But I suppose I will leave before Sunday. I am very much stuck on this town. It is the first real Spanish city that I have seen. Panama having so many Americana in it has become somehow Americanized, with seventy-five per cent of the people speaking English. So this is quite new, having found no one with the least idea of English. It sure makes you feel miles from home when you have a terrible time trying to get some plain "ham and". Having been on the ship for some time now I was crazy for some real cooking, and as soon as I struck the dock made a beeline for a "hash joint”. I found one that looked as if I could get a real feed under five dollars, so went in. I suppose I was the worst customer that waiter ever had, but finally made him understand that I wanted roasted chicken, and soup. I enjoyed it very much after "chow" which we had been taking to sustain life. The food got very bad on board when about two weeks out, getting bad fish, salt horse, bean soup, which was not up so much and not enough of this. They figured up one bill in cents, which made me nearly faint as they had one dollar sign in front of it. So I gave him a lot of the cigar coupons which they call money down there, and he brought me back a lot of change. I wanted to tip the waiter a quarter and gave him a couple of coins which looked like quarters, and afterwards found out were worth together about five cents. I guess he thought I was some cheapskate.
  
  There is great class distinction down here. The people are either very rich or else peons. The rich have large houses in the city here with beautifully designed doors of bronze. All these houses have inside courtyards. Until twelve at night these doors are kept open, and as I walked along the street I could see the inside, which in every case was furnished with the very best money could buy. In one of these places there were a few palm trees in the entrance. In the middle of this courtyard a fountain played, there were benches here and there, the moon was out, and the shadows cast by the high walls of the palms gave the place an air of mystery. Behind all this is what I took to be the living rooms. The place appeared to be decorated in red, but it might have been the reflection of the oil lamp which supplied the light. They had a net up at the door to keep out the night insects, a gentle breeze was blowing and I could catch parts of the conversation of the women. Their voices being very musical lent still more beauty to the place. I do not know how long I stared at all this, but I saw a cop give me a "dirty look", and while I would like to go through the jails down here, I am not so anxious to spend the night in one, when I have a nice hard bed waiting for me back on board.
  
  So I moved on to take in the rest of the town.Strange to say, these streets are very narrow with the exception of a sort of Fifth Avenue, where everybody walks up and down every night. On this street the consuls of the various nations hang out. It seems to be the best part of town, but is not as interesting as the older sections. It is like a painting where the paint has not dried yet it seems so knew.
  
  After "rubbering" everywhere I could around the "swell layouts" I walked to the poor section just to get a line on the town. The working class live in bunches of a few hundred, their hovels being enclosed by four walls of dirty white concrete. Of course, there are openings in these walls, but from the outside it is nearly impossible to see anything or the interior of how they live. It looked very peaceful, and so I thought it would be safe enough to go through which I did without mishap. When inside I stepped into a dusty hallway with little nouses on both sides, they were all connected, with low roofs just high enough to clear your head if you were inside. One little square window for each house, the doors always having a blanket to serve in the place of a wooden door, wood being very expensive down here. At some of the houses the blankets were pulled back and I could see the family as they were sitting at the table talking. The table looked like one of our cheap kitchen tables, and the chairs we would not have had in the kitchen. I was wondering where they slept when I noticed a pile of colored rags on the floor which must have been their beds as there were just as many piles as people. When I say floor, I should say earth as none of the places have wooden floors. I could not see any place to wash and I don't suppose there was any. But that does not worry these people, they look dirty all the time. I bet that many layers of that fine old Spanish tan would come off if anything should happen so they would fall into the bay. But they take good care that no water ever spoils their complexion. This place smelled like a pig pen so I did not need any cop to tell me to move on.
  
  Lima seems to be a much nicer place than those we have just left, there being quite a number of trees and the hills are about twenty miles back, which gives the place a chance to breathe, and does not look as if it were going to slide into the sea. I have seen a lot of Army officers here. They sure wear bright colors and gold braid with a great big sword. If I had the uniform the starter at the Hotel Astor wears, I am sure I could pass as a General, or they might even make me king. The business part of the town is very congested. A few decent looking banks but most of the buildings are very ratty looking. Very much like down around Water Street in New York.
  
  While coming into the harbor at Callao-- that is the seaport for Lima-- we ran into a flock of birds, a kind of duck. There were so many of them, that you could yell to anyone near you, and their wings would make such a noise that he would be unable to hear you. There must have been two or three hundred thousand. There were so many of them that when they rose from the surface of the water it felt as though the whole ocean were coming up. These ducks can fly very fast, but we were so near them that some of them could not get underway fast enough, so they rose a little and then took a deep dive, you could see them go about thirty feet under and swimming like a fish.

  Valparaiso, Chile.

  Well, at last I am in the place I have often dreamed of. I have not been ashore yet, but will go tonight, I am writing this very early in the morning. I want to see as much of the town as possible, and we are only going to be here for a day or so.
  
  I have not been able to write many letters home, as we have only made stops of a day each. We come in early in the morning, and leave at night, so I do not get much chance to go ashore. The Agents will not take letters if they do not have the proper stamps on them. Even then they are not very obliging. You see, we are just a bunch of sailors and why should we bother them?
  
  The country all the way down until now had been very barren, not even a tree to be seen. All copper mines or saltpetre dumps, or oil wells. I am sorry to say that all the Americans I met were drinking themselves to death. I suppose the desolate country gets on their nerves and they don't care any more what happens. But now the country has changed entirely, farms and trees, and all together things are beginning to look human once more. I am delighted, as this continual desert gets on my nerves, and I think I would go crazy if I had to stay in any of these places for a few years. In this southern part of Chile it looks very nice. All the way down we have been within sight of land. Very high mountains, the water is deep right up to the foot of them. If I ever get a chance I sure will take a trip into the interior of South America, I imagine it would be wonderfully interesting.
  
  It is very funny to hear one of the sailors try to talk to these people down here in broken English, while they ought to be trying to talk to them in broken Spanish. He does not seem to realize that they cannot understand a word he says, but seems to think that they just don't want to. I enjoy it very much. I had a very funny time twice. Being out in the sun all day of course I am very tanned and when I don't shave for a day or so I get very dark. While on one of these beaches I was mistaken by an American, for a Spaniard. He could not speak Spanish and so I dragged him along for about fifteen minutes. It sure was fun.
  
  You would be surprised to see the very little time that I get to myself. I “turn to” at six thirty and quit at five, but after I have had supper and washed myself and clothes, it is nine and you can bet that it is very seldom that I am not ready for bed.
  
  We have one more port to call at before we turn our head for the States again. Valparaiso is the largest place we have been to yet. It is also the largest on the West Coast I suppose. Like many other cities it is built on about seven hills, the business district being in the middle and lowest spot, I might say on the ground floor, as the streets are in "tiers", so steep that it is impossible to get a street car to the next terrace. So they have a separate line for the other section, connecting the two, with a sort of cable car, looking very much like the cars used to take people to the top of the "shoot the shoots" at amusement parks. The wind was blowing so hard when I started to go back to the ship that the boatmen charged twenty pesos (four dollars) to take me out. I knew for the same money I could stop at a hotel for the night, and as I wanted to see more of the town; having only been there one night, I decided to do so. I had a small room in the "Ingles" Hotel for a dollar and a half. The bed felt great after the pads I had been sleeping on. It was so soft that I am able to go to sleep for some time. The weather was warm, and I kept my window open. Being on the second floor, I could hear everything very plainly. There was not much traffic, but the police have a system of whistling to the other man on beat to see if he is awake. It is a very shrill whistle with a rolling sound, which they blew every ten minutes or so. I would not have minded so much if I had just heard the men in the neighborhood, but I could hear every whistle in Valparaiso, it seemed to me. I wanted to sleep late, but being accustomed to getting up early, I awoke at the usual time, about five. As the restaurant would not be open, I would have had to sit in the park, or wander about until nine. So I stayed in bed, trying to get as much pleasure as I could out of it. From my window I could see the "mule trains” and hear the tinkle of the bells and the shouts of the drivers. The little "burros" seemed entirely out of proportion to the load. The drivers were riding small horses very much like our western ponies, but did not have a leather saddle. Their stirrups are separate and of leather, with a box tow. Their saddle is made of folded blankets, and secured by a cirsingle. The men ride well but do not see how the horses can stand the heat with so many blankets. By eight o'clock I was dressed, so I left the Hotel to get my first view of Valparaiso by day. The Hotel opened on the square which is flanked by the "Principal Correo" (Post Office) and the City Hall and "Palace de Justice" with the Hotel and the sea on the other. A body of mounted police passed me, they looked like the German guard, with large pointed upturned mustaches, long swords, and sitting like wooden things in the saddle. When a restaurant opened I had breakfast. By that time things were beginning to wake up. The typical business day was begun. Street cars crowded, automobiles filled the streets, and the usual wave of people hurrying to work.
  
  Deciding to walk through the whole town, I started westward. This took me through the poorer section, and the steepest, keeping on one street, so that I would get to the top of the hill where I would get a view of the surrounding country. The road gradually narrowed, from paved street and sidewalk, to nothing but a very narrow walk, paved at one time, but now in a very dilapidated condition; until it was nothing more than
  an earth trail winding up the hill. Along this street are many houses, some patched with tin cans, and many colored boards. But no matter how poor the house, there would always be flower boxes filled with beautiful flowers of every description. That whole street was an avenue of song; from every house door or balcony hung birds, some very brilliant and singing wonderfully. The hill was very high, the path led around, and up and down, so by the time I got to the top I was pretty tired. From this point I could get a beautiful panorama of the city, and the harbor. From there I came down, and along the seafront to the other side of the city. The houses at this end were very fined and were owned, of course, by the very rich. The place looked prosperous in every way, the poor were very happy and contented, from what I could see. It had a very wide-awake air, and had departed much from the old Spanish style of easy-going with their siesta. 
  
  Germans are favored, everything being made in Berlin, and it is noticeable in the dress of the Policy and the Army. All the steam cars and street cars are German. Many of the Spaniards spoke German, German papers being sold on the street. Many Germans with their arrogant manner, thick necks, and I must not leave out their mustaches.
  
  Valparaiso is a terrible place for sudden winds, which always do some sort of damage when blowing from the north. All along the waterfront there are many wrecks, some long since gone to pieces, other quite recent.
  
  The next morning we left, heading south for Talcahuano, our last point south.
  
  Arrived there the following day, being just three hundred miles. It is the Chilean Naval Base, with a fairly decent harbor. It was much cooler than Valparaiso, and I could easily stand a sweater during the day, although this was their midsummer.
  
  I bought some beautiful fruit, cherries, mangos, pineapples, raisins, and many others-- all of the first class. 
  
  It was very refreshing to look everywhere and see nothing but trees, and grass, after the weeks of desolate waste. I went ashore for a few hours, too short a time to see anything. That night we left, I remember so well the order, which sounded more pleasant to me than anything I had heard for two months: "Heave up your anchor! go ahead Mr. Dow". I felt the engines turn over, and watched the lights of the village fade. I was headed once more for the best place on earth---The little old U.SA.---
  “AIN'T IT A GRAND AND GLORIOUS FEELING".