Weaving Basics: Warp and Weft
Warp: The warp is the foundation of any woven piece. It consists of parallel threads stretched taught. Preparing the warp is the first step in weaving any piece. The type and spacing of thread for the warp depends on the desired final product: for tapestry, a strong, smooth thread is desirable, and they are spaced relatively far apart so that they can be completely concealed in the finished textile.
Weft: The weft is thread that is inserted over and under the individual warp threads to create a woven pattern. It also binds the warp threads together to form a solid piece of fabric that holds together when removed from the loom. Again, the nature of the weft depends on the desired finished product: for tapestry, a thick, soft yarn is used for the weft, and multiple colors are required to produce a pattern.
Loom: A loom is any frame for holding the warp threads tight. Looms can be anything from a couple of sticks staked to the ground to a free-standing frame. The most important requirement for any tapestry loom is that it holds the warp threads under high, even tension without bending. The loom below, found at Pachacamac, demonstrates the simplicity typical of Andean looms:
Tapestry: Tapestry is a "weft-faced" weave, meaning that the weft threads completely conceal the warp threads, so that the weft threads create the pattern. What distinguishes tapestry from other weft-faced weaves—and what makes it so time-consuming and laborious to produce—is that patterns are created by "painting" with yarn: each color is manipulated to create free-form shapes while still maintaining the structural integrity of the cloth. Thus, a single "row" of weft yarn may contain several different weft colors.
